Burkini

Lore & Background

The burkini was originally designed by Aheda Zanetti, an Australian Muslim, who was inspired by watching her niece play netball in traditional Muslim clothing. Recognizing a lack of sportswear for Muslim girls and women that met the needs of physical activity, Zanetti designed culturally appropriate activewear. The creation was also a response to the 2005 Cronulla riots in Sydney, Australia, after which Surf Life Saving Australia sought to promote diversity by recruiting Muslim lifeguards. By 2007, Zanetti had designed a uniform for female Muslim lifeguards: a yellow and red two-piece swimsuit covering the head and body.

The burkini covers the whole body except the face, hands, and feet, and is made of SPF50+ fabric, typically finely knit polyester rather than the heavier neoprene used in wetsuits. Zanetti's original design consisted of two pieces: pants and a tunic with an attached hood, made from 100 percent polyester. Ahiida now markets three types of burkini (modest fit, slim fit, and active fit) in various colors, with the active fit using a polyester-spandex blend coated with Teflon to reduce water resistance. Other brands of similar swimwear include Veilkini and MyCozzie, the latter designed by Australian Jenny Nicholson.

Reader's Guide

The burkini's significance extends beyond its function as swimwear, touching on issues of religious observance, cultural identity, and personal freedom. Designed to align with hijab standards that require covering all parts of the body except hands and face, the garment has been accepted by some moderate Muslims but rejected by more restrictive scholars, such as those at Al-Azhar University, who consider it too revealing. The burkini has also been adopted by non-Muslims, including cancer survivors seeking sun protection, Orthodox Jews in Israel, and celebrities like Nigella Lawson, who wore one to protect her skin. In 2016, Zanetti estimated that 40% of her customer base was non-Muslim. The garment's 2016 ban in several French municipalities sparked international debate about secularism, feminism, and Islamophobia, with the resulting publicity boosting sales significantly. The burkini thus serves as a lens through which broader societal tensions around immigration, women's dress, and religious expression are viewed, as noted by professor Heather Marie Akou, who observed that arguments about the burkini involve symbolism and political implications projected onto the garment.

Did You Know?

• The burkini was originally designed in Australia by Aheda Zanetti in response to the 2005 Cronulla riots.
• Zanetti's company Ahiida owns the trademarks to the words burkini and burqini.
• In 2016, French municipal bans on burkinis led to a significant increase in sales, especially to non-Muslims and skin cancer survivors.
• The burkini covers the same amount of skin as a full-body wetsuit and swimming cap.